• WHY VISIT ODESSA THIS SUMMER

  • WHY VISIT ODESSA THIS SUMMER

  • WHY VISIT ODESSA THIS SUMMER

A SHORT GUIDE TO MY ODESSA

This is not a post about which cafe on Deribasovskaya Street serves the most overpriced drinks or which Arcadia club is popping this week. This is a brief guide to MY Odessa, a guide to how I like to experience this city, which I was once lucky to live in for a year.

Known as “Little Paris,” Odessa is full of beautiful architecture thanks to Duc de Richelieu, a French governor appointed to rule over the city, who worked very hard on its planning and development, and commissioned many prominent architects and urban planners of the time to make this city unforgettable.


For Interesting facts about Odessa click here

Named after the Ancient Greek port Odessos, which is believed to have been located in this area, Odessa was founded by Cathrine the Great, Empress of Russia in 1974, under who’s rule the Russian Empire grew larger and stronger by conquest and diplomacy. She also entroduced the smallpox vaccine for the common people and established the first state-financed higher education institution for women in Europe (quite progressive wouldn’t you agree?). 

Duc de Richelieu designed and organized the city’s infrastructure and invited many well-known masters of architecture, engineering, urban planning and craftsmen from all over Europe to make this place a real gem of the Black Sea. A mixture of different architectural styles used like Art Nouveau, Classicism, Neo-Baroque, Rococo and Renaissance is the reason Odessa is nicknamed “Little Paris” and why the city feels so European. 

Even Mark Twain in his travelogue Innocents Abroad wrote about the duke: "Richelieu founded Odessa – watched over it with paternal care – labored with a fertile brain and a wise understanding for its best interests – spent his fortune freely to the same end – endowed it with a sound prosperity, and one which will yet make it one of the great cities of the Old World". 

The city was definitely a very multicultural one with many neighborhood names reflecting the predominant settlers’ ethnicities: Albanians, Armenians, Azeris, Bulgarians, Crimean Tatars, Frenchmen, Germans, Greeks, Italians, Jews, Poles, Romanians, Russians, Turks, Ukrainians, and traders from all around the world.  

Alexander Pushkin, one of the greatest Russian poets who spent his exile in Odessa between 1823 and 1824 (he was very naughty) wrote that Odessa was a city where "the air is filled with all Europe, French is spoken and there are European papers and magazines to read".

For those of you familiar with Soviet history would probably recognize Potemkin Steps from the movie “The Battleship Potemkin” which portrays the massacre that happened here in 1905 when the crew of the battleship rebelled against its officers. The British Film Institute (my favorite place in London), named it the 11th greatest film of all time in 2012. I haven’t seen the movie yet, I think it would be really hard to watch for me, as I really hate Bolsheviks, Communists and the rest responsible for the fall of the Russian Empire and the brutal killing of the Romanov family, including little children. Winter came to Russia more than a hundred years ago and Arya Stark was not there to save it.  

However, another woman, Lyudmila Pavlichenko, the famous Soviet sniper nicknamed ‘Lady Death’ took part in the battle for Odessa trying to end the siege by Romanian Axis forces of the city that lasted for 3 months in 1941. She recorded 187 confirmed kills (including enemy snipers) during the defense of the “South Capital”. After brutal 73 days and tens of thousands dead on both sides, the Romanian troops eventually occupied the city. A 6 months massacre by Romanian occupiers took place right after with more than 25,000 Odessans murdered. The partisan movement has never stopped however and continued through out the whole occupation thanks to the Catacombs under the city, the longest urban labyrinth in the world, which acted as a hiding place and an underground transportation system. Odessa was awarded the title “Hero City” along with the other 3 cities: Stalingrad, Leningrad and Sevastopol after the victory over the Nazi forces in 1945. 


KUYALNIK ESTUARY

KUYALNIK ESTUARY

A very stinky medicinal type of adventure. Well, the salty lake is medicinal and said to do miracles, but it stinks. It stinks a lot, so it takes time to get used to. But that black mud high in salt content is said to be super curative. This is also an adventure into the past: check out the infrastructure remnants of the Soviet Health Complex and deserted buildings from the times when it was an infamous Kuyalnik Sanatorium of the Tsar Imperial Russia. Let me know if you manage to find an epic indoor pool with the pyramid-shaped rooftop: out of this world architecture!

Catacombs - The Largest Urban Labyrinth in The World

Catacombs - The Largest Urban Labyrinth in The World

It is 5 times longer than the Paris Catacombs, running up to 1,600 mi (2,500 km). Formed as a result of limestone mining, some parts of the tunnels date back to the 17th century and some are still working quarries. These catacombs have been used throughout history for many not-so-kosher activities:
smuggling people and goods in and out of Odessa by everyone imagined including Bolsheviks, killing Nazi soldiers, storing wine and cheese, as a hiding place for partisans and everything else your dirty mind can imagine. There are still about 1,000 entrances to this day into this complex maze of underground caves and tunnels.
My stepdad, who is from Odessa, got an opportunity to explore some of its parts in his youth before access was restricted (that’s how they had fun before the video games). But I don’t recommend this type of urban exploration: many have ventured in but have never returned. Some got lost and died a slow death by dehydration along with other numbers of shady situations like tidal flooding. But you can take a guided tour through the part of the labyrinth which is open to the tourists.

OPERA AND BALLET THEATER

OPERA AND BALLET THEATER

Do go see an opera or a ballet performance, or both, at the Opera House. Don’t just take pictures outside and call it a day. You got no excuses not to go: it is very affordable and if you pick right, it can be quite an amazing experience! Did I mention a super Instagrammable interior!?
I once saw a “Game of Thrones” live orchestra performance here, which also did soundtracks from famous movies like The Fifth Element, Matrix, Requiem for a Dream (this one made my friend cry though). “The Elixir of Love” Opera was also fantastic! Female leads here are very impressive, as competition is fierce. I remember feeling pierced by the strength of the woman’s voice (in a good way) to the point of having goosebumps and it felt magical.

TIOSCHIN 'MOTHER-IN-LAW' BRIDGE

TIOSCHIN 'MOTHER-IN-LAW' BRIDGE

This bridge vibrates. Just stand in the middle and wait for it. Can get a bit shaky, in a good way. Nice place to visit around sunset. And yes, there is a legend about a local big shot who loved his mother-in-law's blinchiki so much that he had to build a bridge to make his daily commute to her house a much easier affair. Definitely check out the iconic Colonnade right next to it - a very eloquent piece of architecture. Couples Alert: don't forget to bring a padlock and hang it on the hart shaped sculpture on the other side.

CABLE CAR

CABLE CAR

I go for a Cable Car ride every time I visit. It’s fun and scary but you get amazing views of the Black Sea and its cheerfully painted cars make me feel like I’m back being a Soviet kid.

STAROKINNYY FLEA MARKET

STAROKINNYY FLEA MARKET

On the weekend morning head to Starokonniy Flea Market, the “dream bazaar” as someone named it or the “biggest garage sale in the city.” You can find anything here: USSR memorabilia, Soviet household items, cute animals at the pet market, secondhand clothes, old books, technical instruments and lots of other stuff.

URBAN EXPLORING

URBAN EXPLORING

Although most residents work hard on preserving the spirit of this beautiful city, there are instances of neglected architectural landmarks like The Freemasons House which collapsed quite a while ago (never cleaned up either, so it’s a dangerous urban dump site now and a gathering place for the homeless), located at the intersection of Novosel's'koho and Knyazivs'ka Streets (Freemasonry appeared in Ukraine around the 18th century). There is another site like this one right across from the Cathedral Square. Do not go on the urban exploring mission inside though: the place is about to collapse and the people who occupy it are not the friendly type, to say the least.

NATIONAL SCIENTIFIC LIBRARY

NATIONAL SCIENTIFIC LIBRARY

There are many magnificent buildings in Odessa that make me pause and look up, but one of my favorites is this library on Pastera Street. It’s a fabulous work of architecture, with details and magical proportions that are sure to captivate you. Take Prymors’ka Street to get here from the center and enjoy the industrial views of the port on your way. Take Pastera back and see one of my favorite streets in Odessa. Facades along this walk are absolutely fantastic, just don’t forget to look up.

CATS

CATS

Cats rule Odessa! Definitely come here if you are into street cat photography or just into admiring them. See my collection of photos of cute kitties in my Insta Fluff Highlights.

Darth Vader Statue

Darth Vader Statue

First in the world monument to Darth Vader by the local artist Alexander Milov, is actually a transformed statue of Lenin, which was supposed to be removed as part of decommunization. This guy is also the artist behind a very touching and I think now iconic sculpture you might recognize from the Burning Man: two sad adults facing away from each other, while their inner kids just want to play and connect.

OTEL’ PASAZH SHOPPING PLAZA

OTEL’ PASAZH SHOPPING PLAZA

Check out the hotel’s shopping plaza on the ground floor. It is an absolutely fantastic work of art, which also happens to be super instagrammable! It will sure instantaneously transport you all the way to Paris for a little while.

NATIONAL MEDICAL UNIVERSITY

NATIONAL MEDICAL UNIVERSITY

This impressive university complex is right next to the library mentioned above and definitely a place to see for those who appreciate classical architecture. Take a walk around though and locate the morgue building which is just brilliant.

NOVYI BAZAR

NOVYI BAZAR

I am not a fan of Privoz Market (the largest market in Odessa). It is too messy, too hectic for me, with too many “characters” lurking around (good for people photography though). I go to Novyi Rynok instead. It’s smaller but more refined and the only place I know where to get coconut butter in this city. And if you are able to cook while in Odessa, try out all the varieties of potatoes from this market! You’d be surprised by the flavor profile and a variety in color, texture and taste. FYI they let you try little pieces of homemade cheese (Bryndza, Sulguni) in the Dairy section. Seasonal fruits and veggies are affordable and very delicious here, so go ahead, indulge. Some vendors grow their own and others are just sellers for wholesalers, so if you buy apples from the grandma on the side of the road, you are really helping out the locals. Hello sustainable, responsible tourism :) Vote with your dollar folks.

POSHTAMT POST OFFICE

POSHTAMT POST OFFICE

Beautiful, retro atmospheric spot. This very impressive post office was built in 1893-1895 to house all communication services: post office, telegraph, telephone and until 1917 there was a doorman greeting you at the entrance and 26 operating windows in the central hall... The place still provides various services but I stop by occasionally to take a brief trip into a different era.

GREEK AND ISTANBUL PARKS

GREEK AND ISTANBUL PARKS

These two recent additions have transformed the center of the city. When I lived in Odessa, this was no man’s land: sloping jungles full of stray dogs, homeless people and weird smells. Only the brave or very desperate ventured into this territory. Well, and the Greeks, but much earlier, some two and a half thousand years ago. So nice to see it not only cleaned up but redesigned and made functional. People of Odessa are very grateful for this amazing transformation to the Istanbul Municipality, who allocated funds for the construction of the Istanbul Park to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of Odessa and Istanbul being twin cities. The Greek Park is also a long-awaited addition which brings back the ancient vibes through design elements inspired by the Parthenon. Construction of this park, which included a complex retaining wall, ensures that there is no longer danger of erosion in this historical city area.

BOTANICAL GARDEN

BOTANICAL GARDEN

It is not like the botanical gardens in other major cities: it is much smaller and less impressive, yet I love this place. It is usually pretty empty in here and so you sort of end up having this place to yourself. They do have an amazing variety of roses though, so be sure to check that out. And some very beautiful trees, but my favorite part is the “wild” flower garden to the right of the entrance. It is super floral and very instagrammable. And it changes with the seasons. It is located within a walking distance away from the Cable Car, so you can do both in one day.

GERMAN CATHEDRAL

GERMAN CATHEDRAL

On Novosel's'koho St. 68
Come to this beautiful cathedral for a night of organ music on Sunday nights.

FREE WALKING TOUR

FREE WALKING TOUR

Definitely do a free walking tour in Odessa. It will help you understand and connect to this beautiful city full of history and mysteries in a whole different way. Note: free walking tours rely on the tipping system (the city's municipality is not compensating these people in any way), so don’t be stingy, tip your tour guide at the end if you enjoyed the experience.

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COUCHSURFING

COUCHSURFING

You got to check out the weekly Couchsurfing hangouts usually held at Puzata Hata. I’ve met lots of people that way and had a lot fun making friends and exploring the city with them. Even if you don’t make it to the meeting, make yourself available to hang on the app and you will meet lots of new people. Couchsurfing is pretty popular in Odessa.

7 KM

7 KM

Take a bus ride to 7th Kilometer Market for anything you can possibly want. This is where locals take a day trip to and shop for clothes and other items. Many fabrics from Turkey and other regions can be bought here... after all, Odessa is the capital of seamstresses of all sorts: from mass production to tailor-made evening gowns.
This place is hard to navigate though due to its massive scale and can be a bit overwhelming. But a trip here can be quite rewarding if you know what you are looking for.

Eat & Drink

MOLODOST BAR

MOLODOST BAR

One of my favorite bars in Odessa with an outside seating area and the 90’s vibes.
You get light or dark beer served in glass mugs with tin covers. Traditional Ukrainian food, like Borsh (yummy beet soup), is available here as well. Very retro, very atmospheric place. Take a pic with the neon MOLODIST sign outside, which means Youth by the way. Feeling forever young is easily achieved here with a draft beer or two...

CITY FOOD MARKET

CITY FOOD MARKET

This market with urban food truck vibes is right around the corner from MOLODOST BAR, so you can visit both or bounce back and forth between the two. I personally believe, the DRAFT BEER Bar cozily tucked away in the corner on the second floor, is a hidden gem. Their craft beer is simply delicious and you get a good buzz going.

GAMBRINUS

GAMBRINUS

A place so iconic they even opened another one on Brighton Beach, New York, where lots of native Odessites have immigrated. My friend from Lviv comes here for lobsters and swears that that’s the best thing to do in Odessa. It is an eatery focused on authentic Odessa seafood.

CHERNOSLYV

CHERNOSLYV

Buffet - Cafeteria type of arrangement with very reasonable prices. Pile up what you like on the tray and pay at check out. Lots of seating area available but I prefer to grab a table outside in the shade and do a bit of people watching. And it is definitely a fun thing to do in Odessa where people do dress up and get all pretty to promenade or lounge around, walk the dog or just run out for a fresh loath of bread.

PUZATA HATA

PUZATA HATA

A place with traditional food and very reasonable prices right in the middle of the very touristic Deribasovskaya Street. You don’t have to speak Ukrainian or Russian here: just wait your turn in line and point at what you want. I love the view from up here, especially during the sunset: get a birds-eye view of the busy city life happening below in all type of shades of pink. Many Couchsurfing meetings happen here as well: more than 50 people showed up to mingle when I was there and luckily this place is spacious enough to handle that and more. Cash only.

LE PETIT PARIS

LE PETIT PARIS

Is a cozy French place where expats and Odessites come to socialize. Visit for a glass of wine and cheese or to refresh your conversational French. Located a bit outside of the main touristic area, it is only a short walk away from the center. Take the majestic Pushkins’ka Street to get here, which is an experience in itself.

NOTES ANd HACKS

  • Do not walk under balconies in Odessa. The city is old and not everything is well maintained. So accidents do happen.  
  • Dodge the gypsies, they can hypnotize you if not careful and rob you, so if you are approached just keep on walking and for best results do not listen (they are pros at hypnotizing using the sound current) and start humming your favorite tune out loud.
  • Cook if you can while in Odessa.
  • Fruits and veggies are absolutely delicious here so frequent the local market to get the ripest juiciest homegrown produce of the season.
  • I definitely overdosed on fuzzy lush bright orange peaches and apricots when I visited last time. Pickpockets are operating in Odessa, especially in public spaces like the Railway Station and Privoz.
  • Do not put all your allocated cash for the trip in your trendy little backpack like my friend from California has done, to only find out that it is gone upon arrival to her accommodations.
  • Even though tourist come to Odessa for the beach, I don’t recommend it.
  • Native Odessites do not swim in the Black Sea, well at least not in the center with the rest of the tourist. You gotta move away from the popular beaches to have a good seaside experience.
  • I never swim in the sea though, but go to one of the limanos, where no tourists ever visit.
ABOUT ME
HELLO, I AM JULES! I’M HERE TO TAKE YOU ON A JOURNEY THROUGH MY ADVENTURES AS A SOLO TRAVELER AND TO INSPIRE YOU TO TAKE THAT TRIP YOU’VE BEEN DAYDREAMING ABOUT.

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